What a crazy day on so many levels!
We just got back from our trip to the Ngorongoro Crater, which was both amazing and frustrating. We got to see zebras, wildebeests, water buffalo, giraffes (not inside the crater), hyenas, warthogs, flamingos, lions, elephants and hippos - all of which was completely awesome.
We just got back from our trip to the Ngorongoro Crater, which was both amazing and frustrating. We got to see zebras, wildebeests, water buffalo, giraffes (not inside the crater), hyenas, warthogs, flamingos, lions, elephants and hippos - all of which was completely awesome.
On the way there we passed lots of little villages and shops, including Maasai "cultural bomas". These, growing rapidly in number, are small clusters of Maasai huts, just off the road which are geared at attracting tourists. The deal is that a group pulls over, pays a fee to get into the boma, gets shown around, takes as many pictures as they want, and is then shown to the gift shop... Because of the way that land is being bought up, indigenous groups like the Maasai (who are pastoral) are being pushed out of and off of land they previously were free to roam. They are struggling to survive using the methods they have always survived on, and have turned to tourism, much like the rest of the country.
The Ngorongoro Crater is a conservation area - a term that in the west we tend to think of positively, but has had negative repercussions here. The Maasai, previously used the Crater for grazing their cattle, but now are facing restrictions on their use of the land. They are allowed to live within the conservation area, but not within the Crater. They may only enter the crater between the hours of 6 am and 4 pm, just like the tourists. Our driver, mentioned that some people are trying to move in the direction of making the Crater and National Park, which would mean no one is allowed to live there at all. The biggest argument the Maasai use to hold their ground against being pushed out, is that the park employees (rangers) are also living within the conservation area. But, we passed an apartment complex on the way in, just outside the conservation borders, that is going to house park staff and their families...
All of this makes me wonder what role we are playing as tourists going on safari. Are we supporting the country, by putting money into its greatest means of income? Or are we helping to promote and perpetuate a process which is making life for the indigenous peoples of this country impossible?
On our way our of the park, we stopped at one of the 4 hotels on the rim of the crater, the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. In 2005 it was named 2nd best hotel in the world by a British travel magazine. It was the most lush and extravagant place I have ever stepped into! The rooms were shaped like clusters of Maasai huts, and decorations were matched accordingly, trying as best as possible to look African while remaining excessively comfortable. I asked our guide what it cost to stay there - brace yourself - - - $1150 per night per person. And they were completely booked. Of course, if you would like to come during the low season the price would be reduced by half... The amount of money that tourism brings into the country is astonishing, but I have yet to see where it is used in supporting the people who live here.
The Ngorongoro Crater is a conservation area - a term that in the west we tend to think of positively, but has had negative repercussions here. The Maasai, previously used the Crater for grazing their cattle, but now are facing restrictions on their use of the land. They are allowed to live within the conservation area, but not within the Crater. They may only enter the crater between the hours of 6 am and 4 pm, just like the tourists. Our driver, mentioned that some people are trying to move in the direction of making the Crater and National Park, which would mean no one is allowed to live there at all. The biggest argument the Maasai use to hold their ground against being pushed out, is that the park employees (rangers) are also living within the conservation area. But, we passed an apartment complex on the way in, just outside the conservation borders, that is going to house park staff and their families...
All of this makes me wonder what role we are playing as tourists going on safari. Are we supporting the country, by putting money into its greatest means of income? Or are we helping to promote and perpetuate a process which is making life for the indigenous peoples of this country impossible?
On our way our of the park, we stopped at one of the 4 hotels on the rim of the crater, the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. In 2005 it was named 2nd best hotel in the world by a British travel magazine. It was the most lush and extravagant place I have ever stepped into! The rooms were shaped like clusters of Maasai huts, and decorations were matched accordingly, trying as best as possible to look African while remaining excessively comfortable. I asked our guide what it cost to stay there - brace yourself - - - $1150 per night per person. And they were completely booked. Of course, if you would like to come during the low season the price would be reduced by half... The amount of money that tourism brings into the country is astonishing, but I have yet to see where it is used in supporting the people who live here.
1 comment:
Hi Siri, thanks for your reflections. Tourism is certainly a mixed bag-almost anywhere but especially in a 3rd world country. It is one of the few ways Tanzania brings in outside money...but it is hard to tell where the money goes. Many of the safari companies are owned by non-Tazanians so much of the money does not stay in country. On the other hand tourism provides much needed employment...
Andy and I leave for Colorado tomorrow. Yeah! Love you. Mom
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